What To Do When Your Indoor Seeds Are Growing Much Faster Than Advertised?

This is my first year of growing seeds indoors, and I must admit I covered every angle of this process to perfection. I bought the right seeds, grow lights, heating mat etc... and have religiously followed many expert bloggers advice. In fact I did too good of a job -- my seedlings are growing way too fast! After 10 days, they are where I thought they would be after one month. Growth has been phenomenal and has exceeded my expectations. My seedlings began emerging: Cauliflower-2 days Broccoli- 3 days Tomato- 3 days Lettuce- 3 days Pepper- 4 days After about 2 months, I was told I would need to transplant into bigger (3 X 3", or 4 X 4") pots, at which point I would be ready to place them outside in my greenhouse. According to plan, this would have occurred in late March. However, it's looking like many of my seedlings will be ready for this process before the end of February. Closer view of a variety of peppers and tomatoes. A Chilling Thought The thought of putting these plants outside in a greenhouse in late February is a little troublesome for me. In Virginia the average temperature still dips below freezing on most nights. Even in a greenhouse, this might put too much stress on the little fellas. My Cauliflower's were the first to emerge, after just two days! They are already several inches high. Thinking Ahead For several weeks, my new plants will need a "half-way" house -- between the time they graduate from the seed tray to when they get a new temporary home in the greenhouse. So I am already starting to plan in advance. Despite living in a small, crowded house with very little extra room, I have identified 6 spaces next to windows where I can place trays. Each tray fits 18 3X3" pots, which will cover 108 plants. 72 plants can go back under my grow lights. This still leaves several dozen plants unaccounted for. Oh well, I'll have to cross that bridge when I get there. Next year I will start my indoor seeds one month later ... you live and you learn.

New 2012 USDA Hardiness Zone Map Released - Changes Reflect Rising Temperatures Since Last Release

Updated once every several years to a few decades, the USDA has released an interactive GIS-based hardiness zone map for 2012. It is also available in static image form for slower connections. Click image to view interactive link, or use links at the bottom of this post. Gardeners beware ... the climate has changed over the last several decades and the government has reflected these changes with this new hardiness zone map. Most locations throughout the USA have remained the same or been notched up a half zone. A half zone increase may not sound like much - it reflects a 5 degree change - but with first and last frost times so critical, one or two weeks could make a difference between plant life and death. Stuck in-between zones and not sure which zone you belong to? No problem -- just type in your zip code and it will tell you. Currently, the USDA has not printed any posters of this new 2012 map, but you can download state, regional and national maps in a variety of resolutions and print them yourself. View Maps: Interactive version for higher speed internet connections Static version for slower internet connections

Last Chance Vegetable Plants (Zone 7)

Hard to believe it's August 4th already, but if you live in USA hardiness planting zone-7, you can still plant seeds now for harvest before first frost, presumably sometime later in October. As I explained in this post, plants listed here are based on information primarily for Zone 7 Virginia gardeners, though this reference is probably valid for MOST gardeners located in hardiness zone 7 throughout the United States. What You Can Still Plant (the sooner the better): Cucumbers Summer Squash Broccoli Brussel Sprouts Chinese Cabbage Cauliflower Collards Lettuce (leaf & Bibbs) Mustard Turnips Remember, just because I don't mention it here, it doesn't mean it can't be planted. Do your own research -- you may be surprise what you may still plant. Extending the growing season Many keen and avid gardeners can extend the growing season by utilizing plant survival techniques, allowing them to plant later and harvest later. These include covering vegetation with tarps or other covers to prevent frost damage, watering before sunset to help trap warm air near the soil surface, or use cold frames (mini-greenhouses) Adjacent Zone's 6 and 8 Because this post focuses specifically on Zone 7 (mid-Atlantic to be more precise), I can't speak for hardiness zones 6 (cooler) or 8 (warmer). Common sense would say it may be getting late in zone 6 for the plants discussed here, and you may have more time in zone 8, but please do your own research. Final Word Do you know any other vegetable (or herb) that can still be planted in Zone 7 ? Share a comment and let me know.

Mid-Atlantic 2nd Half Vegetable Planting Dates (Zone 7- Virginia, Maryland & North Carolina)

It's late June and if you're like me, harvest has begun for some vegetables and precious garden space is becoming more available by the day. What to do? Well the good news is that many vegetables can still be successfully planted now or in the coming months for a good late season harvest. For me I just planted Pumpkins and Wax Beans this week, and will plant squash, lettuce, broccoli & cauliflower going forward. On this post, you'll find listed a number of vegetables and the dates by which they should be planted in the ground. The information provided here is based upon graphics and documentation provided from this Virginia Cooperative Extension 2009 PDF document, publication #426-331 via the Virginia Tech website. Though the planting dates are specifically calculated for growing in Hardiness Zone 7 in Virginia (based upon average date of last frost), this information may also be used fairly accurately for Zones 7 in the adjoining states North Carolina and Virginia (Mid-Atlantic region of the U.S.A.). Based upon information in the PDF document, the average last date of frost for my specific area (Fredericksburg, VA.) appears to be around April 25. Therefore these calculations are based upon that specific date. NOTE: The last frost for your area may be slightly different. To accurately adjust for your specific location, you will need to research & determine your average last frost date. For example, if it's April 15th, deduct 10 days from the given planting time frame, and if it's May 5th, add 10 days. If you're not quite sure, just use the dates given below. Planting dates for Hardiness Zone 7 (Virginia & Mid-Atlantic, USA), starting from June 29, 2011: TOO LATE TO PLANT (planting not recommended): Asparagus Beets Carrots Chard (Swiss) Leeks Onion (set) Peas (Garden) Potatoes Radish Spinach Potato (Sweet) Watermelon PLANT NOW (Last Chance): Muskmelons, through end of June Pumpkins, through end of June Beans (Pole), Now through July 14 Beans (Lima), Now through July 4 Eggplant, Now through July 4 Okra, Now through July 4 Peppers, Now through July 4 Squash (Winter), Now through July 4 Tomatoes, Now through July 4 PLANT SOON: Beans (Bush), Now through July 24 Beans (Wax), Now through July 24 Corn (Sweet), Now through July 24 Pea (Southern), Now through August 3 PLANT IN THE NEAR FUTURE: Cucumbers, Now through August 23 Squash (Summer), Now through August 13 PLANT LATER: Broccoli, July 24-August 13 Brussel Sprouts, July 24-August 13 Cabbage, July 24-August 13 Cabbage (Chinese), July 24-August 13 Cauliflower, July 24-August 23 Collards, July 24-August 23 Lettuce (Bibb), July 24-August 13 Lettuce (Leaf), July 24-August 13 Mustard, July 24-August 23 Turnips, July 24-August 23 If you live outside of the region specific to this article, the good news is that many of these same vegetables may still be grown for the 2nd half of the growing season. You will need to do your own research to identify your specific planting dates. DISCLAIMER: Dates are not exact, only an estimation based on previous year's averages. Yearly results may vary due to climatological conditions (rainfall, heat), specific soil conditions, and individual care.