When Should You Harvest Your Sugar Baby Watermelons?

Just a few of my six Sugar Baby's currently growing from 2 plants While an experienced melon grower has little problem determining when to harvest their sugar baby watermelons, the rest of us may need a little help to get it right. Here are 6 ways to determine the right time to harvest and enjoy your sugar baby watermelons: Follow instructions and harvest when you're supposed to. On a calender, note and keep track of the maturity date. This is usually listed on the back of your seed packet. If you don't know your specific type of sugar baby watermelon, most are ready for harvest around 80 days (give or take a week). Check the curly tendril that attaches your sugar baby watermelon to the stem. If it is still green, then it is very much alive, healthy and growing and NOT ready for harvest. If the tendril is brown and dry, it may be prime for picking. NOTE: Start paying close attention daily as it begins turning from green to brown. This will ensure peak ripeness. Thump it with your fingers. This method works best with experience, but can give you valuable clues. When ripe, the sound will be deeper and more low-pitched than younger melons. Look at the skin color and feel it's texture. When harvest nears, the color gradually turns from bright green to a slightly duller hue and the texture starts to feel somewhat rough. These methods are also born from experience but are an excellent determining factor for ripeness. Test it with your fingernail. When ripe, the skin of the sugar baby watermelon will be more difficult to indent with your fingernails. Check the underside of your watermelon. If the belly is creamy-white (for seeded varieties) or golden yellow (for seedless), it may right for picking. Notice the tendril attached to the stems on 2 of my melons. They are not brown and dry yet - therefore they could use more time Final words As your sugar baby watermelons get close to harvest, reduce or stop watering completely. This prevents hollow craters inside the melon, and promotes higher sugar content - resulting in better taste. When brought inside, store your melons between 50 and 60 degrees. DISCLAIMER: Before using any information contained in this blog entry, you are advised to do your own due diligence and research on the topic and/or consult with a qualified expert or professional.

Mid-Atlantic 2nd Half Vegetable Planting Dates (Zone 7- Virginia, Maryland & North Carolina)

It's late June and if you're like me, harvest has begun for some vegetables and precious garden space is becoming more available by the day. What to do? Well the good news is that many vegetables can still be successfully planted now or in the coming months for a good late season harvest. For me I just planted Pumpkins and Wax Beans this week, and will plant squash, lettuce, broccoli & cauliflower going forward. On this post, you'll find listed a number of vegetables and the dates by which they should be planted in the ground. The information provided here is based upon graphics and documentation provided from this Virginia Cooperative Extension 2009 PDF document, publication #426-331 via the Virginia Tech website. Though the planting dates are specifically calculated for growing in Hardiness Zone 7 in Virginia (based upon average date of last frost), this information may also be used fairly accurately for Zones 7 in the adjoining states North Carolina and Virginia (Mid-Atlantic region of the U.S.A.). Based upon information in the PDF document, the average last date of frost for my specific area (Fredericksburg, VA.) appears to be around April 25. Therefore these calculations are based upon that specific date. NOTE: The last frost for your area may be slightly different. To accurately adjust for your specific location, you will need to research & determine your average last frost date. For example, if it's April 15th, deduct 10 days from the given planting time frame, and if it's May 5th, add 10 days. If you're not quite sure, just use the dates given below. Planting dates for Hardiness Zone 7 (Virginia & Mid-Atlantic, USA), starting from June 29, 2011: TOO LATE TO PLANT (planting not recommended): Asparagus Beets Carrots Chard (Swiss) Leeks Onion (set) Peas (Garden) Potatoes Radish Spinach Potato (Sweet) Watermelon PLANT NOW (Last Chance): Muskmelons, through end of June Pumpkins, through end of June Beans (Pole), Now through July 14 Beans (Lima), Now through July 4 Eggplant, Now through July 4 Okra, Now through July 4 Peppers, Now through July 4 Squash (Winter), Now through July 4 Tomatoes, Now through July 4 PLANT SOON: Beans (Bush), Now through July 24 Beans (Wax), Now through July 24 Corn (Sweet), Now through July 24 Pea (Southern), Now through August 3 PLANT IN THE NEAR FUTURE: Cucumbers, Now through August 23 Squash (Summer), Now through August 13 PLANT LATER: Broccoli, July 24-August 13 Brussel Sprouts, July 24-August 13 Cabbage, July 24-August 13 Cabbage (Chinese), July 24-August 13 Cauliflower, July 24-August 23 Collards, July 24-August 23 Lettuce (Bibb), July 24-August 13 Lettuce (Leaf), July 24-August 13 Mustard, July 24-August 23 Turnips, July 24-August 23 If you live outside of the region specific to this article, the good news is that many of these same vegetables may still be grown for the 2nd half of the growing season. You will need to do your own research to identify your specific planting dates. DISCLAIMER: Dates are not exact, only an estimation based on previous year's averages. Yearly results may vary due to climatological conditions (rainfall, heat), specific soil conditions, and individual care.