What To Do When Your Indoor Seeds Are Growing Much Faster Than Advertised?

This is my first year of growing seeds indoors, and I must admit I covered every angle of this process to perfection. I bought the right seeds, grow lights, heating mat etc... and have religiously followed many expert bloggers advice. In fact I did too good of a job -- my seedlings are growing way too fast! After 10 days, they are where I thought they would be after one month. Growth has been phenomenal and has exceeded my expectations. My seedlings began emerging: Cauliflower-2 days Broccoli- 3 days Tomato- 3 days Lettuce- 3 days Pepper- 4 days After about 2 months, I was told I would need to transplant into bigger (3 X 3", or 4 X 4") pots, at which point I would be ready to place them outside in my greenhouse. According to plan, this would have occurred in late March. However, it's looking like many of my seedlings will be ready for this process before the end of February. Closer view of a variety of peppers and tomatoes. A Chilling Thought The thought of putting these plants outside in a greenhouse in late February is a little troublesome for me. In Virginia the average temperature still dips below freezing on most nights. Even in a greenhouse, this might put too much stress on the little fellas. My Cauliflower's were the first to emerge, after just two days! They are already several inches high. Thinking Ahead For several weeks, my new plants will need a "half-way" house -- between the time they graduate from the seed tray to when they get a new temporary home in the greenhouse. So I am already starting to plan in advance. Despite living in a small, crowded house with very little extra room, I have identified 6 spaces next to windows where I can place trays. Each tray fits 18 3X3" pots, which will cover 108 plants. 72 plants can go back under my grow lights. This still leaves several dozen plants unaccounted for. Oh well, I'll have to cross that bridge when I get there. Next year I will start my indoor seeds one month later ... you live and you learn.

New 2012 USDA Hardiness Zone Map Released - Changes Reflect Rising Temperatures Since Last Release

Updated once every several years to a few decades, the USDA has released an interactive GIS-based hardiness zone map for 2012. It is also available in static image form for slower connections. Click image to view interactive link, or use links at the bottom of this post. Gardeners beware ... the climate has changed over the last several decades and the government has reflected these changes with this new hardiness zone map. Most locations throughout the USA have remained the same or been notched up a half zone. A half zone increase may not sound like much - it reflects a 5 degree change - but with first and last frost times so critical, one or two weeks could make a difference between plant life and death. Stuck in-between zones and not sure which zone you belong to? No problem -- just type in your zip code and it will tell you. Currently, the USDA has not printed any posters of this new 2012 map, but you can download state, regional and national maps in a variety of resolutions and print them yourself. View Maps: Interactive version for higher speed internet connections Static version for slower internet connections

Helping Caged Tomato Plants Survive A Tropical Storm Or Hurricane

With a Hurricane & Tropical Storm bearing upon millions of USA residents, it is sure to bring devastating winds and torrential rains to gardens across the region. Any plant with a high center of gravity and dense vegetation will be vulnerable to severe damage. Tomato plants fit that description. Damage to caged tomato plants can be minimized or completely avoided by taking the following steps today: 1. Cut off excess tomato plant growth above the top of the cage (as pictured above). If not removed, rain will make these branches and leaves top heavy and flop around in the wind - increasing the chances of plant collapse. NOTE: I realize this may mean sacrificing a bunch of young green tomatoes, but it's better to take one step back now in order to take two steps forward later. 1b. (Not pictured) Also trim any dead or dying leaves or other excess growth in the middle of the plant. Any extra weight must be reduced. 2. Using appropriate wood for wedges (I'll let you determine what's appropriate), hammer at least two wedges inside the tomato cage (each opposite side from one another) so as to hold and stabilize the cage firmly in place. NOTES: Try to use 4 foot (or longer) pieces of wood and hammer them into the ground at least 2 feet if possible. Also don't worry too much about killing your tomato roots. You're actually only affecting a small percentage of roots. These are not foolproof methods of protecting your tomato plants from storm damage, but will increase your odds for survival. Much depends on your location, path of the storm, amount of rain and intensity of wind. Good luck.

Vivid Garden Sunset After Tumultuous Weather Day & Week

What a week ... Tuesday was the earthquake and this afternoon we had the worst thunderstorm of the year. Close encounter Being 35 miles from the epicenter of Tuesday's 5.8 magnitude Mineral, Virginia earthquake - we were shook up real good here in Fredericksburg. It was quite the experience. It started rather slowly - feeling like the ground next to a passing train. Then it got really violent for about 10-20 seconds before quickly subsiding. I was working in my backyard-facing garage at the time and after realizing that we were having an earthquake, I quickly walked into the safety of my back yard. My biggest memories are me thinking "I can't believe this is really happening - what if this is the BIG one?" I also remember looking at my 16 foot diameter pool and seeing ocean-like waves and the water splashing over the edges. It was an awesome sight! No major damage to the house but the siding all around is now slightly warped like an old phonograph record. Storm of the year This afternoon we were pounded with a nasty thunderstorm, knocking out power for about 2 hours. 7 of my 11 tomato plants were tilted to the side or completely knocked over (see image, above right). Fortunately damage was minor with several branches snapped. I added more support and the plants are as good as new this evening. My pears, unfortunately, suffered worse. Normally we get pears every other year (biennial) but this year I was surprised to see about 100 or so growing. The wind from today's storm dropped several dozen of my pears to the ground (see image, above left), about one month before being perfectly ripe. All is not lost with these pears though -- I will make juice from them in my juicer. The coast is not yet clear Next up is Hurricane Irene, scheduled to side-swipe our area Saturday night. If anything, this week is a real eye-opener and perhaps a blessing-in-disguise to get me prepared for possible power outages and whatever else the Hurricane may bring. Finally, before I leave you, another picture of this evening's fine sunset... NEW  LushGreenVA's aStore - powered by Amazon Clutter-free shopping for vegetable gardeners. Every product hand-picked and smartly categorized by me, H. Mikael - many are similar to one's I use myself, including: Composters, Raised beds, Greenhouses/Cold Frames, Rain Barrels, Rear-tine Tillers and Cultivators

Extreme Heat Vegetable Gardening: 11 Ways To Keep Your Garden Lush Green

Though it's been hotter than normal yet once again virtually all summer here in the mid-Atlantic states, we've yet to hit triple-digits on a recurring basis -- until now. The weather forecast calls for 100-103 degrees in my area today, Friday & Saturday. My garden has held up extremely well so far this year. Except for the dying browning leaves of the potato plants (which is normal in any year/climate), my garden is maintaining its lush green hue. But now it's time to get serious - to show what man vs. nature can do. First & foremost, do not pay attention to the 'heat index' - rather focus your attention only on the temperature. The heat index measures a combination of temperature and humidity, and indicates how it feels to us humans. Since humidity is actually moisture content in the air, plants are not as negatively affected by it as humans. In fact, one can argue that plants (especially those tropical in nature - such as tomatoes & peppers) may actually benefit from the natural wetness humidity brings to the air. So even though we humans may suffer more when it's hot & humid as opposed to hot & dry, plants react opposite. Develop a good watering 'game plan.' 1) Prioritize which plants need to be watered more & most frequently. Pay special attention to wilting or dying plants, and vegetation that naturally relies on more watering, such as melons, tomatoes etc. New plants also need more water than established ones because they are still trying to grow & establish roots needed for long-term survival. 2) During the heat wave, watering should only be attempted early in the morning or later in the evening. Mid-day watering may cause the moisture to evaporate more quickly and/or result in wilting of leaves. Generally speaking, try not to water between the hours of 10am & 7pm. 3) Before watering, allow the sun-heated water already inside the hose to exit before spraying in & around your vegetation. The plants are already stressed and pouring 150 degree water on them cannot be good. NOTE: I have recently read stories of people pouring ice cubes around their plants. This, too, actually stresses the plants rather than help them. Do not do this. 4) Using a hoe, self-irrigate or create temporary water flow channels as I show in this post. If you happen to get a rain shower, this helps direct excess water where it's most needed. 5) To also help prevent water run-off on dry hard dirt, loosen soil with a hoe by tilling the radius from between 6 to 18 inches from the plant stem (tilling too close may damage roots). This helps allow the ground to better soak up more moisture, more deeply. Water run-off can also be prevented by watering less more often, rather than watering more less often. In other words, water for 5 minutes twice a day rather than for 10 minutes once. 6) Since water on leaves should be avoided, so too should be the use of sprinklers. During hot & arid times, resort to watering with containers (like I explain in this post) or use a hand-held hose. Each method allows you to water only where it's most needed -- at or around the base of the plant. Better yet is the use of a drip irrigation system or a soaker hose. Each waters more slowly right at the soil level, preventing evaporation. Additional tips. 1) Don't use fertilizer until after the heat wave subsides. Since fertilizer promotes new growth, it also boosts the need for more water. 2) Adding mulch around the plant is more important than ever. One or two inches of mulch helps retain water moisture & prevent the soil from drying out as fast. 3) Don't be afraid to prune back plants that appear to be suffering from the heat wave. However, don't attempt to prune if you're only trying to stimulate new growth - plants challenged by the heatwave will not benefit. 4) Removing weeds is especially important during these scorching, arid times. Each ounce of water is more valuable than ever, and sharing with weeds should not be an option. 5) Avoid spraying your plants with products that contain oil. The extreme heat combined with oil residue left behind may result in leaf burn. Final word Use this heat to take a much needed break from gardening -- only harvest & water as needed during the early or late day hours. Consider your time indoors (in air conditioning) like a mini-vacation, or use this extra free time planning your second-half vegetable garden. Lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower (among others) can still be planted going forward in most parts of the country. And remember, heat waves are usually (but not always) temporary. Exerting extra effort for a few days or few weeks now will reward you with healthier crops going forward. Resources for this article: eHow- How to water plants in extreme heat CBS news- Help your garden through a heat wave Lohud.com - Coping with a garden in a heat wave *DISCLAIMER: Before using any information contained in this blog entry, you are advised to do your own due diligence & research on the topic and/or consult with a qualified expert or professional.